Bodegas Valdesil Montenovo 2021| Ewineasia.com

While Valdesil is currently in possession of the oldest Godello vines in the entire world, their winemaking philosophy comfortably straddles the old and the new. They’re fundamental traditionalists by way of biodynamic farming—no tilling in the rocky vineyards, thick cover crops, wild yeast ferments, and minimal sulfur additions. But the pioneering spirit of the winery is dedicated to reintroducing Godello to the world, not the easiest task! The current proprietors, the Prada family, have fastidiously sought out plots of vine planted by their ancestor José Ramon Gayoso over 150 years ago. These pezas, or individual parcels of Godello, are scattered through Valdeorras’ rocky hillsides, subsisting happily without much human intervention at all in the interim years. The Valdesil team rewards that self-sufficiency by staying ‘hands off’ in the winery and letting the Godello tell its own story. You could not ask for a purer introduction to the variety as a result. Curious about Godello? The Valdesil wines set the bar for how Godello should taste—a story that’s still being written. Their ‘Montenovo’ is the youngest wine in their lineup, and particularly versatile with food as a result. Vibrant notes of pear, stone, salt, and a whiff of banana chips make for an attractive introduction to the variety.